SideWinder wrote:Pulled the pinion support to do a little clean-up and painting. I'm putting everything back together and "someone told me" that the pinion nut torque(nut that holds the coupler or yoke to the pinion) was critical. I did not pull the pinion out of the pinion support. Everything is still shimmed properly just need to bolt the pinion support into the carrier and install the coupler (dragster style coupler). Do you torque the nut? How tight?
Thanks for the help!!
Are the crush collars available at most parts stores? Is the "desired rotational drag in In/Lbs" something you just feel or is there a more precise way to do it?
Speedbump wrote:If you use a solid shim spacer instead of a crush sleeve, which most builders would in your application, I torque the nut to 175 ft. lb. and use red loctite. If you use a crush sleeve, and you need to determine which method the original builder used, you need around 10-16 inch pounds of preload on used pinion bearings. It could take up to 300 ft. lb. to get that preload, but usually around 200 in my experience.
If you are not using a solid shim kit, you should seriously consider doing it at this time. It's way more predictable, stronger and, in my opinion, makes the assembly easier. You still need the same in. lb. bearing preload, but you simply add or subrtract shims to get it right. A good inch pound 1/4 drive torque wrench will give you the rotational measurment you need and use a test nut or old pinion nut to do your trial assemblies and use the real nut only on the final assembly. (after you've shimmed to the proper in. lb. preload. Good luck
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