front height as car moves down track
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front height as car moves down track
Racers,
My 1970 Nova with Cal-Tracs works very well, very consistent; I have no issues with traction or performance. It lifts the front wheels 6” – 8” at the leave and although the tires touch down about 20 feet into the run, the front suspension remains considerably extended for 400 – 500 feet down track. Even near the ¼ finish line, the front is raised 2 – 3 inches above ride height. This is especially noticeable when racing 1/8 mile since the front is several inches up at the finish line.
I “think” it would be a good thing for the front to settle sooner into the run. Let me hear about some of the other Nova suspension style car, how do they act in ref to mine?
This is a small block, trans brake, running 6.60 1/8 and 10.50 ¼
My 1970 Nova with Cal-Tracs works very well, very consistent; I have no issues with traction or performance. It lifts the front wheels 6” – 8” at the leave and although the tires touch down about 20 feet into the run, the front suspension remains considerably extended for 400 – 500 feet down track. Even near the ¼ finish line, the front is raised 2 – 3 inches above ride height. This is especially noticeable when racing 1/8 mile since the front is several inches up at the finish line.
I “think” it would be a good thing for the front to settle sooner into the run. Let me hear about some of the other Nova suspension style car, how do they act in ref to mine?
This is a small block, trans brake, running 6.60 1/8 and 10.50 ¼
Larry, what do you have for springs and shocks on the front? I've got a 70 Nova also, it has Moroso springs and Koni SPA1's and they work fairly well. However I too, would like to have the front settle quicker and I was thinking of adding a front air dam or spoiler. I have also heard John Calvert is working on some new shocks, I will give these a try as soon as they are avaliable, I believe they will be double adjustable. I'm also going to lower the front end about an inch, I think this and the air dam will help. My car currently does 2-3' wheel stands and can run 10.00's without the balast we use, along with a couple other things to slow it to 10.60's, (our class index). Is your front end travel nice and loose? Good luck and if you don't mind please share what you find is the fix for this, and I will do the same.
2006 PSCA Mean Street Champion
rappracingengines.com
rappracingengines.com
Mark, Thanks
The control arms have Global West bushings and even thought they move freely, I am not sure it is the best setup. On the bench, each control arm is completely free moving, however, once the suspension is completely asembled they have an unsual reaction.
You can pull up on the front bumper, then release it and the car will not return to it static height. [remains slightly higher] Then with only a small down pressure on the ft bumper it will move past static height and remain lower.
Nothing is binding and this it the same with or with out shocks. Here is what I think. The "high tech" bushings have too much friction once the suspension is assembled. I "think" the ideal setup would be some type of bearing.
I have heard mention of such bearings but do not know the source. Any suggestions?
Larry Woodfin
The control arms have Global West bushings and even thought they move freely, I am not sure it is the best setup. On the bench, each control arm is completely free moving, however, once the suspension is completely asembled they have an unsual reaction.
You can pull up on the front bumper, then release it and the car will not return to it static height. [remains slightly higher] Then with only a small down pressure on the ft bumper it will move past static height and remain lower.
Nothing is binding and this it the same with or with out shocks. Here is what I think. The "high tech" bushings have too much friction once the suspension is assembled. I "think" the ideal setup would be some type of bearing.
I have heard mention of such bearings but do not know the source. Any suggestions?
Larry Woodfin
I've heard of the Del-alum, or something like that, (I think it might be a Global West product), they are supposed to reduce friction, I think it would be something for both of us to try. On my upper a-arms I used a lock washer and tightened the bolts just enough to compress the washer, I used loctite on the threads just to be sure. This allowed the a-arms to move thru it travel with less resistance, before I had fully tightened the bolts, which compresses the bushings cause it to slow the movement. I hope I'm doing a half way decent job of explaining this....I need to talk with John and get some more info on the new shock and I'll pass that on to ya as soon as I get it. Which a-arms did you get? I see they have a "drag race only" upper that I believe is chrome moly, how do you like them?
2006 PSCA Mean Street Champion
rappracingengines.com
rappracingengines.com
Sorry Larry, my reading compression skills need to be improved. I understand what you are saying now and I don't think it would be to hard to do, especially with aftermarket a-arms like you have already, (mine are stockers). It could be accomplished with a front wheel bearing type set-up or captured bearing if one could be found that would take the abuse, (I'm sure it could). You have a very good idea!
2006 PSCA Mean Street Champion
rappracingengines.com
rappracingengines.com
Be warned, the price will shack you up. But I believe this is what your thinking of. Go to bottom of page to click on link for products.
I believe these are for a Mopar, but it will get you the idea needed. He may also make them for GM's, I am not sure.
http://www.garysautomotive.net/
Jess
I believe these are for a Mopar, but it will get you the idea needed. He may also make them for GM's, I am not sure.
http://www.garysautomotive.net/
Jess